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Home of all Wester's Custom Performance Tunes FACT: a Customized ECU or PCM with OUR performance calibration is the MOST AFFORDABLE and usually the ONLY way to increase the performance level of your gasoline or diesel engine. We've spent considerable time developing high mileage performance calibrations for your Chevrolet, GM, Ford, Dodge, and Import cars and trucks. SuperFlow AutoDyn 30 1800 HP Dyno Performance Chip Programming ECU Performance Programming EDGE SimuTech ECM / PCM Diagnostics Performance Automotive Electronics ECU Reverse Engineering via RaceLogic Emulator Automotive Performance Milling / Lathe / Welding Automotive PCM and Electronics Repairs ASNU Electronic Injector Flow Bench SUN 450 Diagnostic System Electronic Cam Shaft Verification Bench SuperFlow SF600 Flow Bench - Electronic Valve Spring Analysis

Contact Us Ways to get in touch with us: EMAILS (BEST CONTACT METHOD) : Tech Support: programmer@platinum.ca Shipping Inquiries: westersorders@gmail.com CONTACT US FORM: To the right, you will see the form to fill out and once you hit submit, it'll be sent to our inbox. Please allow 1-2 business days for a response (longer around stat holiday times). BUSINESS HOURS: Mon - Fri: 8 am - 5 pm MST Closed all Canadian Stat Holidays (see list below) ADDRESS: 218 Centre Street / PO Box 159 Tilley, AB T0J 3K0 Canada Please check your Spam/Junk folders as well. Some of our emails are bouncing back due to provider security settings. Name* Email* Subject Reason for Contact* Choose Option Message* Submit ON THE MAP 218 Centre Street / Box 159 Tilley, AB T0J 3K0 Canada Getting Here New Years Day Family Day (AB) Good Friday Easter Monday Victoria Day Canada Day Heritage Day/Civic Holiday (AB) Labour Day Thanksgiving Day Remembrance Day Our Christmas Holidays We will be closed these days and some others throughout the year as things come up. We are always available via email (addresses above). Please keep in mind that replies may be limited to business hours. January 1 Third Monday in February Varies Varies Monday Preceding May 25 July 1 (or next business day) First Monday in August First Monday in September Second Monday in October November 11 Usually just before Christmas until after New Years CANADIAN STAT HOLIDAYS

Instructions Instructions (Click for .pdf) 1996-2000 ECM Installation 4.3L V6 1996-2000 ECM Installation 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L 1999-2007 GM Legacy LS1 2005-2010 LS2 ECM Installation 2006-2010 6.6L Duramax ECM Replacement 2006-2009 Pontiac Solstice/Saturn Sky 2.4L 2007-2009 Pontiac Solstice/Saturn Sky 2.0L Turbo GM Memcal/PROM Installation 1993-1995 6.5TD Memcal Installation GM TBI Prom Installation Fan Harness 1987-1995 GM TBI "Set Timing" Instructions Pass Key Relearn Instructions 6.5TD Fast Idle Upgrade Instructions 2001-2004 LB7 High Idle 2004-2005 LLY Duramax Fast Idle 2004-2006 LLY Fast Idle 2006-2007 LBZ-LMM Fast Idle Upgrade 2008 Fast Idle Upgrade 6.0L Gas Dealer Programming Manuals DPS-FORD Manual Duramax Diesel Tuner OBD1 Manual OBD2 Manual

Product Info - ASNU Electronic High-Performance Injector Flow Bench We Test: Flow Rate Injector Pattern Live Dynamic Resistance Tests We can test each injector from 0.001 second firing time to static (held open) and at up to 10,000 RPM with over 16 available injector flow test procedures, testing 1-8 injectors at a time. Three level intensity Ultrasonic cleaning removes even the toughest deposits in under 20 minutes. Only $19.95 per injector (TBI, TPI, PFI) complete with data sheet. Test and renew throttle body injectors for the fraction of the price of one injector! Ensure the set of injectors you have are a flow matched set for the best performance. For Your Information: It recently came to our attention that the injectors fitted to 2005 Ford 5.4L engines in the F-Series pick up trucks & Expedition SUVs, etc. have high "historical" failure rate (you only have to Google Ford 5.4L injector failure to see you much of an issue it is!) Having recently diagnosed & serviced a set of these injectors made by Siemens Deka, we quickly discovered that this particular injector was manufactured without the traditional 10 micron filter screen inside!! Two bent con rods in our injector history case. P.W.I. have sourced filter screens for this application and they are available under ASNU part #201 (24 in a package) @ $1.98* each (*current price unknown at time of this publication). Cheap insurance when servicing these troublesome injectors. These injectors are also adjustable in terms of "Flow Rate" calibration. Please contact us for further details on the specification and detailed instructions on how to calibrate them if your test results vary by more than +/- 3%. For "Forum Gurus" who have nothing better to do other than misquote us, the sets we sell are flow matched, and the pressure increase provides the proper flow rate. SCPI injectors work by unseating a pre-loaded ball and spring with high pressure. They work better as pressure increases. These injector sets require ECM reprogramming or you will damage your engine. Fuel pressure must be a minimum of 55 PSI or the poppets may not open--they DO NOT OPEN at 50 PSI. CPI injectors do NOT fail at high pressure, like regular rail type injectors do, or like the upgraded replacement set you can purchase from GM.

Custom Order Wester's Garage Custom Order Custom Orders *Important Regarding Shipping Please see our Shipping Info prior to shipping anything to us! If you ship incorrectly, you will be billed for any charges that we incur! BEFORE You Order... Please read the following: 1982-1995 GM Product 3-4 Letter Code - White label located on the outside of your vehicle's computer 1994 and Newer GM Product Performance Computer: PCM 1994-2007: Under the hood. We need the Vehicle Identification Number (all 17 characters) and the Computer Service Number. Example of Service Number: 12588335 1987 and Newer Ford Products 3-4 Alphanumeric Code - White label located on the outside of your vehicle's computer Flash Handheld Unit for your GM or Ford Year of your vehicle Please visit the INFO page for: Complete Listing of Early Flash PCMs which will require VINs -- we do not program all of them at this time. Assistance finding your computer or chip ORDER FORMS Our Order Forms are in Adobe PDF format. Download FREE Adobe Reader When ordering, please download the current version of our forms (below). Using outdated forms may cause missed information. We strive to do the best we can and this is the best way you can help! Fill out the form with the most accurate information possible. We assume that any space left blank indicates stock parts. Need help? Click Here to see an Order Form Sample You can email your form directly to us by clicking the top right button in the corner on the forms. If this will not work for you: FAX: Print and fax it to 403-377-2270 EMAIL: Scan and email it to programmer@platinum.ca If you are still having problems, please see the FAQ Page Ordering Section for help GAS Vehicle Performance Tune Order Form (Revised August 2015) DIESEL Vehicle Performance Tune Order Form (Revised August 2015) Payment Methods We Accept PayPal Address: nwester@eidnet.org

Shipping IMPORTANT: REGARDING TARIFFS: Every international shipment is subject to tariff calculations, this is out of our control. These fees will be your responsibility upon arrival. If you have any questions, please contact us (tab above) and we'll do our best to help. SHIPPING TO WESTER'S GARAGE: Please follow our Shipping Instructions below to avoid any additional charges to you. If you ship incorrectly, any charges we incur will be billed back to you. Recommended Shipping Methods: Purolator, UPS, FedEx, Loomis, CanPar, DHL, CanadaPost/USPS/Postal Service ACE Courier does NOT come to us so please do not send via their services or your shipment will be delayed. Do not use "Ground" or "Standard" as extra charges will be incurred. INCLUDE WITH EVERY COMPUTER: Full Name Complete Address Phone Number (and email for shipping tracking purposes) List of Vehicle Modifications (non-stock) List of What You'd Like Done/Programmed SHIPPING FROM WESTER'S GARAGE: Most packages will be shipped via the most cost-effective courier method, usually UPS, or Purolator. These methods prove to be the more reliable option. If you'd prefer a specific shipping method, please select it at checkout or contact us . As of July 1, 2016, we no longer offer free shipping. Sorry for the inconvenience. Shipping Shipping Orders from Wester's Garage Orders are shipped via Canada Post Expedited, Canada Post XpressPost, Purolator Express, DHL Express, UPS, etc... whichever option is most economical/cost-effective. It may differ from the option at checkout. All options will have tracking numbers and we require signatures for pick up so that no packages are left at door unattended. If you prefer a specific method of shipping or you have a shipping account number, please put it in the order notes or email us immediately following placing your order. If you have a preferred method that is more costly, you will be invoiced for the balance. If you have an account number for shipping, you will be refunded the paid shipping cost. Shipping to Wester's Garage Within Canada ** DO NOT assume that we know all your details or what you want done with your ECM/PROM/Memcal/etc. We get a ton of calls and emails in a day. Provide your info with your shipment or you risk delay in return shipping. ** INCLUDE IN BOX: Vehicle Info: Vehicle Year/Make/Model/Engine Size/VIN List of Programming-Related Modifications to your vehicle (or any you're planning to do in the near future) If we've corresponded via email, include a printed copy. Contact/Billing/Shipping Info: Name, Billing Address, Shipping Address (if different), Phone Number, and Email Address for tracking information If items arrive without this information, your order may face major delays. PACK IT UP: Pack up your ECM / PROM / MEMCAL etc. with the above vehicle info included in a sturdy box making sure that it will travel safely. Sometimes packages arrived and they look a bit rough. Protect your property! SHIP IT: Choose a method to send the package to us. We receive via Loomis, Purolator, Canada Post, UPS, DHL, FedEx, etc. Make sure you are able to track your package! Most methods within Canada provide a tracking number. We will not be held responsible for lost items Ship To Address: Wester's Garage 218 Centre Street / PO Box 159 Tilley, AB T0J 3K0 403-377-2277 Shipping to Wester's Garage From Outside Canada ** DO NOT assume that we know all your details or what you want done with your ECM/PROM/Memcal/etc. We get a ton of calls and emails in a day. Provide your info with your shipment or you risk delay in return shipping. ** INCLUDE IN BOX: Vehicle Info: Vehicle Year/Make/Model/Engine Size/VIN List of Programming-Related Modifications to your vehicle (or any you're planning to do in the near future) If we've corresponded via email, include a printed copy Contact/Billing/Shipping Info: Name, Billing Address, Shipping Address (if different), Phone Number, and Email Address for tracking information If items arrive without this information, your order may face major delays! PACK IT UP: Pack up your ECM / PROM / MEMCAL etc. with the above vehicle info included in a sturdy box making sure that it will travel safely. Sometimes packages arrived and they look a bit rough. Protect your property! SHIP IT: Choose a method to send the package to us. We receive via Loomis, Purolator, USPS, UPS, DHL, FedEx, etc. Make sure you are able to track your package! Most methods provide a tracking number but be sure! We will not be held responsible for lost items. SHIPPING VIA COURIER: Do NOT Ship anything via "Ground" or "Surface". These methods will end up costing you more as we usually incur charges from the Canadian Border (Duty, Brokerage, Taxes, etc.) We bill these charges back to you and it may end up costing you more than the Air services you should have gone with in the first place. SHIPPING VIA POST OFFICE: Do NOT ship anything via "Standard" or "Non-Priority". These methods usually take 4-6 weeks and they are usually not traceable. There is a higher possibility that your computer may be lost (especially if there's no tracking number). Always check with your Post Office for the best way to ship for your area. You can also check the options online at www.usps.com. Insurance: You may insure your parcel if you'd like. All parcels are automatically insured for $100 when sending via Priority (check with your Post Office to be sure). However, if you are concerned about it being lost in the mail, you can insure the parcel for the price of replacing the ECM. Just know that if you place too high a value, we may incur charges and these will be billed back to you. See Customs Info below. CUSTOMS: US Customs Form: See example of completed form here. In the 'Detailed Description of Contents' box, write "Automotive Computer: Temporary Import for Repairs" For the 'Value', write "$15" Why? Drop it off at your local Post Office using a method described in Step 3. ** Make sure you are able to TRACK your package. We will not be held responsible for lost items! ** Ship To Address: Wester's Garage 218 Centre Street / PO Box 159 Tilley, AB T0J 3K0 403-377-2277 Returning Your Core to Wester's Garage Follow the same instructions and guidelines as above (Shipping...) ** Include a copy of your Wester's Garage invoice or enough relevant information that we can determine who is returning the Core ** You have 30 days to return your Core for a refund. If we do not receive it within 30 days, you will not receive your Core credit. US/International Customers: US Customs Form: See example of form here. In the 'Detailed Description of Contents' box, write "Canadian Goods Returning for Warranty Exchange" For the 'Value', write "$15" Why? Drop it off at your local Post Office using a method described in Step 3 of Shipping From Outside Canada Core Changes and Refunds We Charge You: For the Core when it is shipped to you If there are additional charges we incur (Customs/Duty/Brokerage) from incorrect shipping If you return a Core from a different vehicle. It will be tagged with your name and checked for functionality. For freight if you return a damaged Core We will take a photo, email it to you, and your Core will be returned to you. We do not accept damaged Cores (whether internal or external) Damaged Cores are considered to be in the following condition(s): Physical pin damage Connector damage or crushed so that the connectors can no longer provide a weather seal Non-communicating (not able to reprogram) We Refund You: If you return your Core within 30 days and it has your correct information on it. If we cannot determine who it is from, you will not receive a Core refund. Refunds will processed via the original method of payment. There will be no cash refunds. Updates: If you haven't returned a Core at all, you no longer get updates. If you've paid for your Core (non-Return or wish-to-own), you must return the Wester's Garage Performance PCM when you want an update/reburn. ** There are no refunds on Custom Performance Chips or Custom PCM/ECM's (when programmed to our specifications, not yours). Since we don't copy protect our PROM or MEMCAL, we can't stop you from copying our program. We CAN stop you from copying the program and returning it for a refund. If you build something that isn't going to work, we will advise you of the same to avoid future hassles. ** Still Need Help? Email our shipping department at westersorders@gmail.com.

FYI: COMPUTERS Helpful Information: OBD1 Computer Location List (Below, Finding My Computer & Further Helpful Info) OBD2 Computer Location Pictures (Below, Computer Location) Instructions Page for PCM installation, PROM and MEMCAL removal and reinstallation, and for passkey instructions when replacing a computer that was not originally from your vehicle. View PDF on understanding VINs - If you're not sure what year your vehicle is, include the VIN on your order form. Computer Location Computer Locations Computer Location Help: FORD Attention: The 3 or 4 digit alpha numeric values are what we need to build your chip. This information is on the connector end of the computer above the UPC bar code. Here's a more comprehensive list and some pictures of example labels showing the information we need. The computer is a large silver box with one large rectangular connector of 60 to 120 pins. Truck computer locations vary from behind and left of the park brake bracket, to the passenger side kick panel or above the right side kick panel. Car locations vary from under drivers' dash, passenger kick panel, and above and rearward of the glove box. Prior to ECU removal: 1st - Remove the ignition key from the ignition cylinder. Disconnect the battery negative terminal. 2nd - Disconnect the main connector with a 10 mm socket from the firewall/bulkhead side and gently slide the connector away from the computer. 3rd - Remove the computer - in most gas trucks from the above passenger side dick panel after the plastic retaining clip is removed, the computer will almost fall out. - 1998-2003 diesel computers are inside the black plastic sleeve near the park brake bracket. - 2003+ computers for the diesels are beside the battery. - 2008+ 6.4TD are at the passenger side bulkhead. - We now mainly concentrate on 1996 and up Ford products and no longer support the older models other than some of the older Mustangs. With our DPS-Ford system, removing the computer is no longer necessary as we can reflash the computer directly. The 1996-2010 Ford codes are directly above the UPC stamp on the white label which is glued to the ECU connector, and on a black plastic cover on the computer J3 port. Ford codes are always 3 letters and 1 number. ANY OTHER NUMBERS are not needed for your order unless mentioned on the order page. Computer Location Help: GENERAL MOTORS Computer locations may vary... 1982-1995 Car Locations vary from behind the glove box, above the glove box, under the passenger side dash, under the hood at the right strut tower, the right side kick panel. 1984-1988 Pontiac Fiero computers are located rearward between the seats. 1987-1995 GM Truck computers are always behind the glove box (4.3, 5.0, 5.7, 6.5TD, 7.4). Look for a silver box with two or three connectors. The computer often has a white label which indicates computer service number and 4 letter code. To verify the code, always remove the computer cover (two 1/4" screws) and note the label directly on the computer chip. The computer code always has 4 letters on the computer white label tag (Service #1227747 code ANLW), or right on the prom itself. This code is required for all 1982-1995 GM computer reprogramming as we alway prefer to work from the original calibration rather than supply a 'generic-one-size-fits-all' calibration. Most Astro Van ECM's are behind the passenger kick panel or under the hood (after 1995). 1992-1995 Cadillac is always under the passenger side dash. 1996-2010 computers (VCM/TCM/PCM) are normally located under the hood, except in the case of some V6 cars (under the drivers side dash). Once you find your 1987-1995 GM computer, locate the box "code" and include it on your order form! Computer Location Diagrams: CARS 1994-1997 LT1 & 3800 Camaro; 1994-1996 Corvette - Passenger Side, Firewall 1996-2003 Monte Carlo 3800 Impala 3800 1998-2004 LS1 & LS6 Corvette 2006 Cadillac STS - Acess from under the car 2008 Cadillac DTS ECM & TCM Computer Location Diagrams: TRUCKS & SUVS 1996-2000 GM Truck 1996-2002 GM Truck 4.3L-7.4L - Driver's Side, Under Hood 1996-2003 6.5 Turbo Diesel - Behind Glove Box 1999-2007 GM Truck 4.3L, 4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L, 8.1L - Driver's Side, Under Hood 2001-2004 Duramax LB7 TCM & PCM Location 2002 Buick Rendexvous - Inside Air Box 2002-2006 Trailblazer/Envoy (4.2L) - Bolted to Side of Engine 2006-2007 Trailblazer 4.2L 2007 2.2 HHR "1" is the TCM (Auto Only), "3" is the ECM 2007 6.0L Trailblazer SS Computer Location Diagrams: VANS 1996-2000 Astro Van 3.4L ONLY - Driver's Side, Under Hood 1996-2001 GM Van V8 5.7L 2007 3.9L Uplander Finding My Computer and Further Helpful Information See the tabs for additional spreadsheets of info and don't forget to scroll over! Click on the Tabs here

Services SuperFlow AutoDyn 30 1800 HP Dyno Performance Chip Programming ECU Performance Programming EDGE SimuTech ECM / PCM Diagnostics Performance Automotive Electronics ECU Reverse Engineering via RaceLogic Emulator Automotive Performance Milling / Lathe / Welding Automotive PCM and Electronics Repairs ASNU Electronic Injector Flow Bench SUN 450 Diagnostic System Electronic Cam Shaft Verification Bench New SuperFlow SF600 Flow Bench - Electronic Valve Spring Analysis DYNO TUNING With our in-shop, in-floor SuperFlow AutoDyn 30 1800 HP Chassis Dyno, we can fine-tune for you over multiple test-runs. Dyno tuning is only available for two-wheel drive vehicles and only during the warm months (May - September). Don't forget to fuel up! MILLING/LATHE/WELDING Contact Us for more info PERFORMANCE TUNING From Domestics to Imports, Horsepower to Fuel Mileage, we can probably help you get the best performance out of your vehicle. Getting it running the way it should right from the factory! INJECTOR FLOW BENCH We can test your injectors on our ASNU Electronic Flow Bench. More information available under the Product Information Drop Down Menu. DIAGNOSTICS With EDGE SimuTech ECM / PCM Diagnostics, SUN 450 Diagnostics, and more scanning tools and software available, we can diagnose the issues you may have and find a solution for you. TROUBLESHOOTING Check out our Troubleshooting and FAQ Pages and if you have more questions, contact us !

Troubleshooting BEFORE you call us, TEST, Don't Guess! Please explore the problem so that you can give us informed answers about what the issue could be. This will save your time and ours! OBD2 Trouble Code Chart and Diagnostic Connector Button Complete OBD2 Trouble Code Listing OBD1-2 "Set Timing" Instructions "Wester's" Technical Math Data Sheet - Contains formulas for MPH, RPM, Gear Ratio, Tire Radius, HP Quarter, HP & Torque, Volumetric Efficiency, Flow Bench Conversion Factor, Cubic Inch Displacement, Cubic Feet per Minute, Injector Sizing, Converting Pounds Per Hour to CC Per Minute, Fuel Flow Rates, Compression Ratio, Oxygen Sensor Voltage Graph and Air Fuel Ratios, Miscellaneous Conversion Formulas Great Engine Tech Tips Troubleshooting Troubleshooting 01 My starter doesn't engage... Read the supplied information carefully after installing the PCM for a quick relearn procedure--pay attention to the passkey information !! Did you disconnect the battery when installing your chip?? Recheck your battery connections. Aside from the Corvette and some Cadillac models, there are no other earlier GM calibrations prior to 2001 that use the computer to interrupt the start circuit. A Ford performance module is impossible to install upside down, and some Ford computers (1998-2000) need to have the J3 segments connections soldered for a complete connection to the ECA processor. Without this repair, the Ford performance chip will not work and the "Theft" light will rapidly flash. If you supplied us with a calibration number other than what your car originally came with or engine was designed for, your vehicle may not start. If you need the VATS or Passkey disabled, you must tell us this at order time. For GM FLASH PCM/VCM replacement, the PASSKEY RELEARN PROCEDURE must be done: The typical 1998+ Car and Truck Passkey / Antitheft relearn procedure is this: Disable your headlamps (Park Brake Apply--do not remove headlamp relay). Attempt to start the vehicle (this means you rotate your ignition key fully to the start position). Vehicle may or may not 'fire' and quit. Some vehicles will not allow starter motor engagement, and this is normal. DO NOT TURN OFF KEY YET!! Leave the key in the "on" position, until the 'security' light goes out or quits alternately flashing between "Security" and "Battery". This relearn period always takes 10 minutes. How long does this take? 10 minutes. How long do you have to wait? 10 minutes. After the security light is no longer displayed on the instrument panel cluster, shut the key off! Wait 5-10 seconds and repeat the above procedure (steps 1 through 3) two more times for a total of 3 start-relearn-attempts, remembering to shut the key off between each 10 minute relearn procedure. This will take 30 minutes--no less. If the 4th start attempt fails to start the vehicle you did one relearn step (or all of them incorrectly). If you left your headlamps on until the battery went dead and voltage dropped below 10.5 volts, no amount of relearn attempts will be learned!! Don't read too much into this. Most people cannot seem to grasp the simplicity of this relearn procedure. New for LS2 (2005+)...Here is the GM procedure to relearn the VTD code: Press the START button. Observe the Security telltale. After approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn off. Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds. Repeat steps 1-3 two more times for a total of 3 cycles or 30 minutes. Important !!! The vehicle learns the passwords on the ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle. Start the vehicle. The ECM has now learned the RCDLR password. Make sure there are no bent pins in your ECM connector or pushed out harness pins in the wiring harness. IF a pin has been broken on your ECM, we can repair or replace your ECM/PCM for a small fee. If this is a new engine installation, carefully check for missing "ground" wiring or an unplugged harness connection. A performance chip (replacement chip--not replacement computer) will always allow the starter to engage the engine flywheel (with exception of some earlier Corvette calibrations--or 2001+ VCM's), so don't blame a 'chip' on a starter or ignition switch failure. A freshly painted engine block can inhibit the ground path to the starter...clean those grounds!! 02 My starter engages, cranking RPM is normal, but engine will not fire..." Read the supplied information carefully after installing the PCM for a quick relearn procedure--pay attention to the passkey information!! Did you disconnect the battery when installing your chip ? Even a static discharge can ruin your new calibration. Treat this calibration chip with extreme care. If you also fail to disconnect the battery when swapping chips, the RAM memory retains the values from the previous chip. It will take a long time before new closed loop values are learned. Do not swap chips back and forth without disconnecting the ECM from power, without disconnecting your battery, or without pulling the ECM fuses first. The second thing to check is if you installed the chip correctly. A GM Prom chip has a notch in one end--it must align to the notch in the carrier as in the supplied instructions. Many people install the chip backwards--this will often damage the chip. A memcal is impossible to install backwards, but with enough force it "could" happen. If the chip is correctly installed and the car still doesn't start--see if the check engine light is rapidly flashing or steadily on--you may have bent a chip "leg" at installation. If you do damage a chip--just send it back to us--we'll immediately send you a new one. If you supplied us with a calibration number other than what your car originally came with or engine was designed for, your vehicle may not start. If you need the VATS or Passkey disabled, you must tell us when you place your order. For GM FLASH PCM / VCM replacement, read PASSKEY RELEARN PROCEDURE (#1 above) Make sure there are no bent pins in your ECM connector or pushed out harness pins in the wiring harness. IF a pin has been broken on your ECM, we can repair or replace your ECM/PCM for a small fee. If this is a new engine installation, carefully check for missing "ground" wiring or an unplugged harness connection, vacuum leak or bad MAF. A performance chip will always allow the starter to crank the engine (with exception of some Corvette calibrations--or 2002+ VCM's), so don't blame a chip on a starter or ignition switch failure. New computers need a learn/relearn period. A common trouble code is P1336 or P0315 (Cam/crank sensor position relearn). Sometimes a no-start can occur because the idle has not been learned yet. Read the supplied information carefully after installing the PCM for a quick relearn procedure--pay attention to the passkey information !! We've recently found that some PCM's will not talk to the databuss for a while. Disconnect the battery and let sit for 15 minutes (this is after you've learned the Passkey). Reconnect battery and then reattempt to start. If no "quick learn" procedure was provided for you, it doesn't need one--simply start the vehicle with 10-15% throttle. Allow to idle. When the idle is stable, put the vehicle in gear with the brake applied. Allow for the idle to stabilize for 20-30 seconds. Return to park. Shut off and re-start to see if the idle is now stable. Repeat if engine is not at operating temperature, and repeat with the air conditioning or high electrical load on (headlamps). 03 My starter engages, but engine starts and stalls..." Read the supplied information carefully after installing the PCM for a quick relearn procedure--pay attention to the passkey information!! For GM FLASH PCM / VCM replacement, read PASSKEY RELEARN PROCEDURE (#1 above) If no "quick learn" procedure was provided for you, it doesn't need one--simply start the vehicle with 10-15% throttle. Allow to idle. When the idle is stable, put the vehicle in gear with the brake applied. Allow for the idle to stabilize for 20-30 seconds. Return to park. Shut off and re-start to see if the idle is now stable. Repeat if engine is not at operating temperature, and repeat with the air conditioning or high electrical load on (headlamps). 04 My car starts and runs, but idles poorly and the check engine light is on..." Did you remember to install the knock module in your 1994-2000 PCM as instructed ? If so...read further. Find out what your "trouble code" is and phone or email us immediately. We'll guide you through the diagnostic process or fax you repair information. If you're familiar with OBD1 diagnostics and know how to access trouble codes, good ! If not--give us a call and we'll help you out. Refer to the enclosed sheet that came with your performance chip on how to access the trouble code information. OBD2 (1995 and up import and domestic vehicles) require a scan tool for diagnostic analysis. Check www.autoenginuity.com for some good software/hardware scan tool packages which we endorse. This scanner actually times each scanned event, making it a much more reliable option than some of the other 'scanners' out there. Some vehicles require a P1336 or P0315 relearn procedure which is performed with a scan tool with bi-directional controls. Most off the shelf scan tools will not do this procedure. Scan tools from OTC, SnapOn or other aftermarket (non-OEM) may or may not perform the procedure properly, either. Do not waste your money on a $200 store bought code reader--this will not help you. A common trouble code is P1336 or P0315 (Cam/crank sensor position error). Sometimes a no-start can occur because the idle has not been learned yet. IF we sent you the computer FROM your vehicle (which you sent us), there should be no CASE relearn procedure or passkey relearn required. Newly installed computers may need a learn/relearn procedure. The "idle air control" valve may not have as yet learned it's new position...perform the IAC relearn procedure for GM. Typical relearn is this: 1. Start vehicle and allow to idle--allow to reach normal operating temperature. Allow to idle in varying gear positions (drive/neutral) for up to 3-5 minutes in each position. Then redo with the A/C on and headlights on ! Some times you may have to coax the idle a bit to maintain an idle--so help it along with the gas pedal! If no "quick learn" procedure was provided for you, it doesn't need one--simply start the vehicle with 10-15% throttle. Allow to idle. When the idle is stable, put the vehicle in gear with the brake applied. Allow for the idle to stabilize for 1-2 minutes. Return to park. Shut off and re-start to see if the idle is now stable. Repeat if engine is not at operating temperature, and repeat with the air conditioning or high electrical load on (headlamps). Often, "performance" plug wires cause RFI interference which can corrupt the signals that your computer receives. Many a problem have been solved by simply checking and solving some ignition errors. Check spark plugs for porcelain cracks, broken insulators or incorrect plug gaps. A cracked reluctor in a distributor can actually double the 'tach' pulse, causing a very interesting fuel injection pulse width--again, don't overlook your distributor if so equipped. A leaking EGR valve is an often discovered problem. This causes lower than normal manifold vacuum, affecting the MAP sensor to ECM readings. A dirty MAF sensor also causes drivability and idle problems. Check for an unplugged sensor. Check sensor grounds and sensor supplied voltages. Don't overlook incorrectly installed vacuum lines. Do not overlook bad grounds, painted mountings or anything that would interfere with good body to chassis connections. Painted bell housing to transmission surfaces can often lead to early transmission failure or poor electronic communications between the PCM and sensors or solenoids in a transaxle or transmission. Make sure your battery has connections to both engine block and vehicle body on the negative side--and good positive connections where required. A bad tail-light bulb (part of the TCC circuit) can cause early transmission failure in most Ford products--so pay attention to every detail! Some calibrations or custom hot rods do not use all sensors--if you failed to tell us this, your check engine light will be illuminated. 05 My car starts and runs, but idles rich or lean...no check engine light..." #1 "rich" problem is a leaking EGR valve. Always check to make sure that this valve doesn't have a leaking pintle and seat--and make sure the EGR solenoid isn't energized (if exists) or that the EGR valve vacuum port isn't being supplied with manifold vacuum. Generic EGR valves are a very poor purchase choice. #2 "rich" problem is a leaking MAP sensor hose or faulty MAP sensor. Again--simple tests will reveal the problem. #3 "lean" problem is leaking TBI base gaskets (accompanied by a fast idle and low IAC "counts"). Replace the base gasket where required. Contaminated MAF sensors which improperly measure engine airflow will also incorrectly fuel the engine. This can lead to detonation or very lean operating conditions. #4 "lean or rich" problem is an O2 sensor that has biased lean or rich. Test to see that the O2 sensor can produce at least 150mV to 900mV. Any leaks ahead of an O2 sensor will slew the computer calibration rich, since the computer will think there's a "lean" problem. Faulty canister purge solenoids, vacuum leaks, restricted fuel injectors, leaking fuel injectors, leaking fuel pressure regulators, improper PCV valve, leaking MAF boot...etc. -- ALL can cause fuel calibration problems. Please verify before calling. New injectors are often faulty--especially 'performance injectors'. If your TPS voltage is too high, the ECM automatically is 'thinking' that the throttle plate angle is higher than normal--so additional fuel is added. Check a service manual for the proper specification (typically 0.42-0.68volts throttle plate closed). Check base ignition timing. It must be at the factory setting. If you had problems starting your car or truck, check the engine oil--does it smell like fuel ? Check fuel pressure ! Low fuel pressure is sometimes worse than high fuel pressure. If an injector dribbles fuel -- poor atomization is the result. If you're working with a throttle body system, look at the injector spray pattern when running. Use a timing light and note if the pattern changes from a 'mist' to a solid wave at any time. If the pattern also accompanies an engine "misfire"--check the distributor closely. The injector is fired by the ECM via signal from the distributor. If the calibration doesn't run good "closed loop" let us know what the fuel trim numbers indicate (from a scan tool). Do not phone until engine has at least cycled the cooling fans once or the thermostat has opened--or you've driven at least 30 miles. An ECM or PCM must "learn" new fuel strategies--allow 'learn in' time. Speed density systems are the most difficult to "dial" in, so if all known problems do not seem to be apparent, we may need to recalibrate the fuel curve. Try to include all the camshaft specifications when you fill the order form. Do not build low compression engines with wild camshafts--you won't like the result. 06 My car starts and runs, idles great, but is rich or lean at cruise..." First off--don't overlook the basics. Plugged fuel filter, air filter, spark plug condition/wrong reach or vacuum leaks. 1. Check the O2 sensor, restricted fuel injectors, low exhaust back pressure (non factory exhaust system) or high exhaust back pressure--(too much EGR) 2. Check the ignition system for misfire, weak ignition or pickup coil, bad DIS coil pack or leaking secondary wires (plug wires). Spray the plug wires with a soapy water solution and listen for an engine idle misfire--you can often visually see the ignition leakage. 3.Test ignition coil output. An engine should be able to run (idle) with a 1/2-3/4" open gap at the ignition coil tower with a spark tester. This is a coil "stress test". 4. Check for vacuum leaks, fuel enriched engine oil, water in fuel, excess methanol in fuel or high "ethanol" blend or oxygenated fuel. Do not run high octane fuels unless instructed to do so. All factory calibrations are designed for 85-93 octane ratings unless engine modifications justify high octane. Volatility rates for high octane fuels can lead to poor cold starts, vapour locking problems and poor driveability in very hot climates. Lower octane in low altitude can lead to detonation problems with high performance calibrations. High octane at high altitudes can also cause driveability problems unassociated with tuning--but can be corrected with tuning. Higher than normal octane fuel can actually cause code 43 (ESC) tests to fail. Exhaust manifold to cylinder head, or header collector leaks cause an oxygen sensor (in closed loop) to read 'lean' -- which in turn causes the computer to add more fuel. 07 My car starts and runs, fuel is correct at cruise, but has no power or runs lean at WOT or rich at WOT..." #1 Check fuel pressure and volume. 90% of high performance concerns are fuel pump or filter related. A dirty "in tank" filter sock will restrict even the best fuel pump. #2 Restricted injectors. (Lean) This problem may or may not show up at highway cruise, but is very noticeable at wide open throttle. Remember the brake specific fuel consumption rules when picking injectors for your application. Cheap injectors are not worth the money. Buy quality injectors, or have them flow tested. #3 Check throttle plate linkage for binding or incorrect throttle opening. Check TPS voltage (should be above 4.2 volts at WOT). Check for a faulty ESC (electronic spark control) system (no spark advance will result). #4 Check for "false knock". Any noise generated (whether real or RFI) to the knock sensor or KS circuit will automatically retard ignition timing. We once had a 454 SS truck that could hardly pull itself when towing anything--problem was a loose hitch ball, which sent the same knock frequency down the frame rails--and was picked up by the knock sensor. #5 Check for an improper spark plug gap or spark plug reach. Wrong plug reach can change the air fuel ratio, slow the flame front in the combustion chamber and cause increased emissions and very low power--and low fuel economy. #6 Dirty MAF sensor. If any dirt is on the sensing elements of a MAF sensor, the fuel rate is incorrectly calculated. This can harm overall driveability--and definitely hurt performance, as well as cause transmission problems and detonation. #7 Wrong MAF sensor or failed MAF sensor. The sensor can correctly show idle flow voltages, but cannot correctly show higher operating loads to the computer. Very poor driveability will results, and very high losses in power--and can result in eventual engine damage. Mounting the MAF sensor in a non-OE position (nearer to throttle body) can be affected by reversion pulses from the intake manifold--and result in incorrect metered air values to the computer. #8 Wrong in tank pump and regulator. For 2005, some suppliers are sending a complete pump and regulator for supercharged applications which are incorrect. If the pump and regulator from a VIN "Z" truck is used, the resulting fuel pressure is 48-54 (335-375Kpa) PSI. Factory fuel pressure for 2005 trucks (other than a VIN Z truck) is 55-62 PSI. Because of this unknown factor, we suggest getting the number right from the fuel pump before installing, along with the fuel pressure regulator number--BEFORE installing it in the tank. #9 New problem with some centrifugal superchargers is a unique phenomenon where at part throttle, the buildup in pressure barks back through the impeller--and is picked up by the MAF sensor. This causes an instant frequency change in the MAF sensor signal to the PCM--and results in a very rich frequency problem each time this occurs. Wide open throttle is fine, part throttle is very poor and jerky because of this. The only cure we've seen so far is a larger pulley to drop the supercharger boost pressure, or relocating the MAF sensor to the pressure side of the supercharger, just ahead of the throttle body where it is not affected by these overlap air burps. OBD2 trouble code chart and diagnostic connector location CLICK HERE 08 Common Duramax Problems 2007-2009 Chevrolet Kodiak, Silverado; 2007-2009 GMC Sierra, TopkickEquipped with the 6.6L Diesel Engine - RPO code LMM "Light and Medium Duty Trucks EGR DTC P0401" Problem: A dealer may encounter a customer concern of a SES light and a DTC P0401 for Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Flow Insufficient. P0401 may occur when the vehicle is used in applications that necessitate extended idle times and short drive cycles. Exhaust modifications will also set this trouble code. Solution / Recommendation: Complete the current SI diagnostics for any trouble code or symptom found. If diagnostics were inconclusive it's possible the vehicle has a restricted EGR cooler. If the vehicle has a P0401 and is being used for extended idle and short drives, the EGR cooler may have to be cleaned or replaced. EGR Cooler restrictions can be diagnosed by monitoring MAF sensor readings at idle. Complete the current SI diagnostic for DTC P0401 (circuit/system testing portion) to verify if EGR cooler is restricted. If the restricted EGR cooler has been verified, removing and cleaning the EGR cooler may repair the condition. When the EGR cooler is removed use either Simple Green or Krud Kutter following the process below. Install new EGR cooler gaskets to complete this repair. Remove the EGR cooler following SI repair procedures. Fill EGR cooler (exhaust openings) with Simple Green or Krud Kutter (cleaners are available at most hardware stores). Plug one end of cooler and fill the EGR cooler with cleaning solution. Soak for 15 minutes. Alternating the filling from one end to the other may also be helpful. Flush with clean warm water. Repeat until the cleaner and water run clear with out any soot (this may take a full gallon of cleaner to complete). Dry EGR cooler with low pressure compressed air. Inspect the cooler by shining a flashlight through the exhaust passage. Light should be observed from one end to the other. If partial blockages still exist, repeat the cleaning process. Note: Local radiator shops with ultrasonic cleaners may also be able to clean the EGR cooler effectively. Do not use cleaners such as brake clean or other chemicals with any type of acid in the product. Brake cleaners will only harden the soot and make it more difficult to remove. Replace the EGR cooler if cleaning is not successful. 2006-2010 Chevrolet Silverado; 2006-2010 GMC SierraEquipped with the 6.6L Diesel Engine - RPO codes LBZ, LLY, or LMM "P0106 MAP Sensor Icing" Problem: You may encounter a customer concern of reduced engine power, SES light, or P0106. The P0106 may be the result of condensation that has frozen inside of the MAP sensor. The P0106 will only occur in areas with ambient temperatures at or below freezing for a long period of time. Solution / Recommendation: If there is a DTC P0106 set inspect the MAP sensor inlet. If there is condensation, water, or an oily substance in the MAP sensor inlet clean all the related parts and reinstall. Evaluate the repairs. Evaluate the repairs: There is a known condition when the airbox fills with snow, and although the MAF sensor may be frozen, air filter plugged -- as the snow melts, it freezes off inside the intake where the MAP sensor is housed. Melting the ice will solve the code. Engineering is currently working on new repair information for DTC P0106. This PI will be updated when new information becomes available. Cleaning the MAP sensor will alleviate the condition until more condensation is built up. Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. 2006-2007 Chevrolet Silverado Classic; 2006-2007 GMC Sierra ClassicEquipped with the 6.6L Diesel Engine - RPO codes LBZ, or LLY "Snow Intrusion into Air Filter or P0101" Problem: You may encounter a customer concern of reduced engine power, and a SES light, or a P0101. The P0101 may be the result of snow intrusion into the air filter. The P0101 with snow intrusion will only occur on vehicles driven for 2-3 hours through large amounts of blowing snow. Solution / Recommendation: Complete the SI diagnostics for any DTC or symptom found. If a P0101 is stored, inspect for snow intrusion into the air filter. If snow intrusion has been verified complete the steps below. Install the winter front grill cover (see notes at the bottom of this PI for description), and replace the air filter if necessary. After cleaning and installing the air filter, a modification to the air filter access cover will be necessary. Drill five 1-inch (25 mm) holes in the cover as shown below. This cover (with holes) will now be used for colder temperatures and driving through heavy snow storms. This PI will be updated when part number for replacement air cleaner cover is received. The cover with holes can be used until spring/summer time temperatures return. Note: If the vehicle is equipped with a two-piece grill cover, only the upper portion of the cover needs to be installed. Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. 09 No OEM Remote Start functions after ECM Swap The (Bosch) ECM for the 2006+ Duramax require a flow rate reprogramming procedure for any new computer which hasn't been in that vehicle before. The other issue is the VATS (vehicle anti theft system) counter--must be "0". Often with a reflash or replacement ECM, this counter may go as high as 255 in the ECM, which would require 255 restarts or driving cycles before the remote start will work again. This requires a relearn from the GM Tech2 and TIS terminal to accomplish this. Often, the reset counter goes as high as 10 to 15, so if your remote start fails to work after 15 key starts, a hard reset should be performed with the Tech2. The newer GM gas ECM has the same problem, other than there are no flow rate reprogramming procedures required. 10 Fast Idle Options Please see Instructions Page for Fast Idle Options and Instructions 11 MAF Diagnostic Information Best Cleaning Method: Spray sensors with Brakleen (or other Non-Chlorinated Brake Cleaner) and gently clean with a SOFT toothbrush. 12 Rotton Egg Smell From Catalytic Converter The sulphur smell from the exhaust, is actually caused by running the engine/cat convertor slightly lean for long periods and then running under a rich condition (i.e. going up a hill under heavy load) This is when the sulphur smell (rotten egg) is produced. Under relatively lean conditions, the sulphur found in gasoline is bonds to create sulphur trioxide, then during the rich running condition the sulphur trioxide is converted into hydrogen sulphide (rotten egg smell) within the catalytic converter. GM, Ford, Chrysler have all issued a service bulletin which detailed this problem. They list the cause as : the gasoline sulphur content and the characteristic of catalytic convertor to store sulphur compounds and release them during rich engine running conditions. Replacing the catalytic converter doesn't help. The most often cause is high sulphur content of the gasoline--so switching gasoline brands may help. The Oxygen sensor may also need to be replaced to correct a fuel injection mixture problem, but this should show up with fuel trimming errors. 13 1997-1998 6.5TD Offset Adjustment Date: February 1998 SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE Subject: Section 6 - Engine Controls Revised TDC Offset Adjustment Models: 1997-98 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models with 6.5L Engine (VINs F, S - RPOs L65, L56) This bulletin revises the 1997 and 1998 TDC Offset Adjustment. General Performance Chip / ECM / PCM Charts

FAQ If you have any questions that have not been answered or you would like to know something that is not on this page, please contact us. No question is a dumb question! There may be someone out there wanting to know the same thing! Frequently Asked Questions Where Can I Find My Computer? Please visit the COMPUTERS page for help on finding your computer and for illustrations of locations. How Do I Install My Wester's Custom Tune Please visit the INSTRUCTIONS page for help on installing your custom tune. If you need help finding your computer's location, you can visit the COMPUTERS page for a list and location photos. Contacting Wester's Garage What is the best way to contact you to get answers fast? The best way to contact us, as on out Contact Us page, is through EMAIL! We check our email periodically throughout the day between other jobs and reply as soon as we can. When phoning, you may be put on hold for a period of time and we could end up taking your name and number to call you back when we're available and depending on how busy the day is, it may not be until the following day. EMAILING will cut down the time required to answer phone messages and get a faster and almost immediate response. Email is fast and efficient!!. What should I include in my emails to you? Please include all prior correspondence as there are many emails we go through in a day. Also, please try to be as detailed and thorough as possible with your information and questions. We appreciate the time you put into being prepared. Ordering From Wester's Garage How do I place an order? The BEST way to order from us is to use our order forms found on the CUSTOM ORDER page. We have two choices: a form for gasoline vehicles and a form for diesel vehicles. After you have chosen a form, you can email it directly to us using the "Submit By Email" button found on the top of the form. If you prefer to not send personal information through email, you can fill out the form, print it out and fax it to us at 1-403-377-2270 (24 hours). I can't open the order form If you are unable to open the order forms, it is most likely because your computer does not have Adobe Reader installed. Adobe Reader is a program that allows you to read files in .pdf format. A link can be found on the order form page to download a free version of Adobe Reader. If the order form still will not open for you or you have a slower internet connection, please contact us and we can fax or email a form to you. I can't submit the order form, there is an email error This may occur if you do not have email set up through a program such as Outlook. You can fix this by either setting up your email through this or a similar program on your computer OR you can simply fill our the form, save it, and then attach it to your email to us from your Hotmail, Gmail, Yahoo, AOL, etc. email account. Email the form to programmer@platinum.ca. You can also try another internet browser. The order form says I need a CODE or VIN. What is my CODE or VIN, and where do I find it? Performance CHIP and COMPUTER calibrations are CODE or VIN specific! To order a 1982-1995 GM or 1987-2003 Ford calibration, you will need to provide us the following: 3-4 letter GM code or 3-4 alphanumeric Ford code on a white label located on the outside of your vehicle computer. (Can't find your computer? See the INFO tab above) To order a 1994-2007 Flash-style GM computer: To order GM Performance Computers (under hood PCM 1994-2007) you require the vehicle identification number (all 17 digits/letters read directly from the vehicle) AND computer service number. (Example Service Number: 12588335) To order a flash handheld unit for your GM or Ford, we just need to know what year your vehicle is and what engine you want tuning for. Complete list of Early Flash Computers which will require VIN -- we do not program all of them at this time: 1990-1991 Model Year R-Car 1.6L SOHC Manual/Auto R-Car 1.6L DOHC Manual/Auto 1992 Model Year R-Car 1.6L SOHC Manual/Auto R-Car 1.8L DOHC Manual/Auto J-Car 2.2L LN2 Manual/Auto L-Car 2.2L LN2 Manual/Auto 1993 Model Year R-Car 1.6L SOHC Manual/Auto R-Car 1.8L DOHC Manual/Auto A-Car 2.2L LN2 Auto W-Car 2.2L LN2 Auto W-Car 3.1L LH0 Auto 4-speed W-Car 3.1L L82 Auto 4-speed F-Car 3.4L L32 Manual/Auto J-Car 2.2L LN2 Manual/Auto L-Car 2.2L LN2 Manual/Auto S/T Pickup 4.3L LB4 (Z) 1994 Model Year *B-Car 4.3L L99 Auto *B-Car 5.7L LT1 Auto *D-Car 5.7L LT1 Auto W-Car 3.1L L82 Auto 4-speed *F-Car 3.4L L32 Manual/Auto *F-Car 5.7L LT1 Manual/Auto L-Car 3.1L L82 Auto N-Car 3.1L L82 Auto *S/T Pickup 4.3L LB4 (Z) *Y-Car 5.7L LT1 1995 Model Year *B-Car 4.3L L99 Auto *B-Car 5.7L LT1 Auto *D-Car 5.7L LT1 Auto W-Car 3.1L L82 Auto 4-speed *F-Car 3.4L L32 Manual/Auto *F-Car 3.8L L36 Auto *F-Car 5.7L LT1 Manual/Auto -Car 2.3L LD2 Auto L-Car 3.1L L82 Auto N-Car 3.1L L82 Auto *S/T Pickup 4.3L LB4 (Z) *S/T Pickup 4.3L L35 (W) *Y-Car 5.7L LT1 Flash Prom vehicles are unique in that their ECM is specific depending on the VIN number. The name "Flash" comes from the fact that the entire memory chip is erased and reprogrammed without removing it from the ECM. It's less expensive, more reliable and has increased memory capacity. *Flash PROM vehicles are the current OBD1 models we reflash and modify for performance applications. Others listed can be upgraded to the latest GM calibration at a modest cost at our shop. Dealers How do I become a dealer? Contact us by emailing our Programmer, Lyndon, at programmer@platinum.ca. He'll be able to help you through the process. Where can I find a dealer close to me? Please visit Our Dealers page and you can scroll to find the location closest to you. Shipping Questions How do I ship my computer to get tuned at Wester's Garage? When you are wanting a custom tune by Wester's Garage and we require your computer, you must follow shipping instructions carefully! This will help get your computer here the best way and by the fastest means possible! Please click HERE to read our shipping instructions for a computer that is going to be tuned and then sent back! Why am I being charged extra for a "Core"? When you purchase a custom tune from Wester's Garage and we send you a computer for your vehicle, you are required to send your vehicle's original computer back to us. If you have not returned a core PCM, and our records indicate you haven't, you no longer get free updates. If your core is not returned after 30 days, you cannot receive it for credit -- you've paid for it. When you've paid for your core (non-return or wish to own your stock calibration), you must return the performance PCM when a reburn or update is desired. If your core is shipped and received damaged, we'll take a photo of it and email it to you. It will be returned. We do not accept damaged cores. Damaged cores are considered to be in the following condition(s): -- Physical Pin Damage -- Connector damage or crushed to where the connectors can no longer provide a weather seal -- Non-communicating (not able to reprogram) If the core you send us did not come from your vehicle, it will be tagged with your name on it, arrival date, and checked to determine functionality. We do not accept damaged cores (whether internal or external). It is in your best interest to ensure the returned core comes from your truck to avoid core charges. Presently, we have a couple hundred non-functioning computers from prior clients. I don't know how to send back my "Core" Please see our Shipping Instructions page for Return Shipping Information. Will This Affect My Warranty? If you are unsure about warranty issues you may be faced with, please read this TSB that GM produced in 2007 here. What Is Torque Management? PURPOSE: Torque Management is a function of the PCM that reduces engine power under certain conditions. Torque Management is performed for three reasons; 1) To prevent overstress of powertrain components, 2) To limit engine power when brakes are applied, and 3) To prevent damage to the vehicle during certain abusive maneuvers. OPERATION: The PCM uses manifold vacuum, intake air temperature, spark retard, engine speed, engine coolant temperature, A/C clutch status, and EGR valve position to calculate engine output torque. It then looks at torque converter status, transaxle gear ratio, and brake switch inputs and determines if any torque reduction is required, the PCM retards spark as appropriate to reduce engine torque output. In the case of abusive maneuvers, the PCM may also shut off fuel to certain cylinders to reduce engine power. DESCRIPTION: There are five instances when engine power reduction is likely to be experienced: • During transaxle upshifts and downshifts • Heavy acceleration from a standing start • If brakes are applied with moderate to heavy throttle • If brakes are applied and brake booster vacuum is low • When the driver is performing stress-inducing (abusive) maneuvers such as shifting into gear at high throttle angles. In the first two instances, the driver is unlikely to even notice the Torque Management actions. In the other three cases, engine power output will be moderate at full throttle. When the PCM determines that engine power reduction is required, it calculates the amount of spark retard necessary to reduce power by the desired amount. This spark retard is then subtracted from the current spark advance. In the case of abusive maneuvers, the fuel injectors for cylinders 1, 4, 6, and 7 will also be disabled for a period of time. What Is Horsepower? Just about every car advertisement on TV mentions it, people are talking about their cars always seem to have more than the other guy... But what is horsepower and what does it mean? The Definition: The term horsepower was invented by James Watt, who lived way back between 1736 and 1819. The story goes that Watt was working with strong draft horses carrying coal and he wanted a way to talk about the power available from one of these horses. Probably wanted to brag to his fellows about how he improved his horses' performance, right? He found that, on average, a horse could do 22,000 foot-pounds of work in a minute. For some odd reason, he then multiplied that number by 50% and pegged the measurement of horsepower at 33,000 foot-pounds of work in one minute. It is that strange, arbitrary unit of measure that has made its way down through the centuries and now appears on your car, your lawn mower, your chain saw, and even your vacuum cleaner and household blender. What horsepower means is this... In Watt's judgment, one horse at the coal mind can do 33,000 foot-pounds of work every minute (apparently those horses he observed doing 22,000 foot-pounds of work every minute were slackers and were sent out to LePages). A horse exerting one horsepower can raise 330 pounds of coal 100 feet in a minute, or 33 pounds of coal 1000 feed in one minute, or 1,000 pounds 33 feet in one minute, etc. You can make up whatever combination of feet and pounds you like - as long as the product is 33,000 in one minute and you have one horsepower. You can probably imagine that you would not want to load 33,000 pounds of coal in the bucket and ask the horse to move it one foot in a minute because the horse couldn't budge that big a load. You can probably also imagine that you would not want to put one pound of coal in the bucket and ask the horse to run 33,000 feet in one minute, since that translates into 375 miles per hour and most horses can't run that fast. If you have a block and tackle, you can easily trade "perceived weight" for distance using an arrangement of pulleys. So you could create a block and tackle system that puts a comfortable amount of weight on the horse at a comfortable speed no matter how much weight is actually in the bucket. Horsepower can be converted into other units. For example, one horsepower is equivalent to 746 watts or 2,545 BTUs (British Thermal Units) per hour. So if you took a one-horsepower horse and put it on a treadmill, it could operate a generator producing a continuous 746 watts. If you took that 746 watts and ran it through an electric heater, it would produce 2,545 BTUs in an hour (where a BTU is the amount of energy needed to raise the temperature of one pound of water one degree F). One BTU is equal to 1,055 joules, or 252 gram-calories, or 0.252 food Calories. Presumably the horse would burn 641 Calories in one hour doing its work if it were 100% efficient. Measuring Horsepower: If you want to know the horsepower of an engine, you hook the engine up to a dynamometer. Horsepower is pure theory--it's an arbitrary number. A dynamometer places a load on the engine and measures the amount of TORQUE that the engine can produce against the load. Some dynamometers measure the acceleration rate of a known mass at a given rate of speed--like a DynoJet. The basic formula used is: Force (ft/lbs) = MASS (lbs) X ACCELERATION (ft/second) Since the MASS of the roller is known, and the ACCELERATION rate can be measured with simple sensors, the resultant force exerted on the roller in "ft/lbs" is then calculated from the known values (mass x acceleration) although not physically measured. With in input from the engine such as RPM--we then input the data and make up "horsepower". There are other correction inputs like atmospheric pressure, humidity, etc...but we won't go into that here. The formula most widely accepted becomes: HP = Torque x RPM / 5252 To further the initial formula-if you can measure the acceleration rate, you can use a product like a G-Tech (www.gtech.com) to accurately calculate HP and Torque, without ever going to a dyno. "G-Tech" data and track times are normally within a fraction of each other, making this tuning/measuring method very accurate. But let's first talk a bit more about torque, since it's a tangible measurable force, and we'll explain dyno theory a little bit more. Torque Imagine that you have a big socket wrench with a 2-foot long handle on it and you it to apply 50 pounds of force to that 2-foot long handle. What you are doing is applying a torque, or turning force, of 100 foot-pounds (50 pounds to a 2 foot long handle) to the bolt. You could get the same 100 foot-pounds of torque by applying one pound of force to the end of a 100 foot handle or 100 pounds of force to a one foot long handle. Similarly, if you attach a shaft to an engine, the engine can apply torque to the shaft. A dynamometer measures this torque. Our MAHA dyno is computer controlled. The computer applies an "eddy current", controlling load to the rollers and actually "holds" the vehicle at a fixed wheel speed, no matter how hard you put your foot into it -- the vehicle axle speed is held there. You can vary the output with the amount of engine load applied at that speed by varying throttle angle. The output to the dyno screen is actual, real world, measured force (torque) delivered from the rear tires to the rollers. It's a pretty cool machine -- I can load the rollers to simulate pulling a load, or driving down the road, driving up an 8% grade, or just hold the vehicle at one speed (really nice for tuning). I've had a low 10 second 1996 Mustang on it which had been engine dyno'd on a Superflow Engine dyno at over 750 hp on alcohol -- tuned with pyrometers instead of air fuel ratios. Although the MAHA software has 500 HP limitations at this point, the MAHA dyno performed flawlessly--holding the Mustang at any speed we chose to maximize the state of tune. Here's a shot of Mike Williams (a car we previously built parts for and sponsored) '70.5 Camaro from a 2003 run at Mission, B.C. and ran a best 9.42 @ 142 MPH with a BBchevy and Turbo 400 transmission with Ford 9". Needless to say, he usually emptied the pits when he was up to run. I've personally programmed a different spark map on an engine with a SUPERCHIPS Race ICON, tried the best possible combination on a '99 Nissan Pathfinder Stillen model, and only gained 7 ft/lbs torque at the wheels. That wouldn't even be a tangible, "feelable" gain at the seat of your pants--but this dyno measured it--time after time. Before you think that the ICON doesn't work, I installed one on a 1995 S10 4.3 CPI with a 700R4 transmission and gained 95 ft/lbs of torque by retuning the spark map above 1800 RPM through 5500 rpm. If you plot the horsepower versus the RPM values for the engine, what you end up with is a horsepower curve for the engine. What a graph like this points out to you is that any engine has a peak horsepower - an RPM value at which the power available from the engine is at its maximum. An engine also has a peak torque at a specific RPM. You will often see this expressed in a brochure or a review in a magazine as "320 HP @ 6500 RPM, 290 ft-lb torque @ 5000 RPM" (the figures for the 1999 Shelby Series 1). When someone says an engine has "lots of low-end torque" what they mean is that the peak torque, like in a diesel application, occurs at a fairly low RPM value. Fuel Mileage Gains From Wester's Tune MILEAGE GAINS are one of the main reasons for consideration of getting a programmed ECU. The main reasons you and your car will get poor mileage is because of the following: 1. Driving faster than the speed limit. The drag co-efficient of the larger passenger car or truck of today still isn't fantastic. Therefore it requires more horsepower (and fuel) to displace air as you drive down the highway. It has been said that the difference between 55 MPH and 70 MPH can be 20% of your fuel costs. Frontal area is a very key factor in mileage and performance--just ask your NASCAR crew chief... yes, you will get better mileage if you follow that semi-trailer too closely, but that's not exactly a smart thing to do. MYTHBUSTERS YOUTUBE VIDEO 2. Tire inflation pressures incorrect. Although the manufacturer often recommends inflation pressures of a lower value, it requires more horsepower to roll a lower inflated tire down the road. You'll find that increasing inflation pressures so you get a more even tread wear pattern on your tire will also indicate the best 'tire contact' to the ground. Tires that wear more on the inside AND outside of the tread pattern indicate under inflation. A wear pattern in the centre of the tire indicates over inflation --but the mileage gains may offset tire replacement cost. You want good tire contact across the tread, without increasing TOTAL tire contact patch to the ground. The greater the contact patch -- the more friction -- the more heat -- the more total energy lost. 3. Engine state of tune. If you can't remember when you replaced your spark plugs or air filter--you may want to give them your attention. Stay away from 'fancy' plugs...all a spark plug does is provide a gap for the spark. Improper "spark plug reach" can inhibit mileage as much as 30%...so make sure the spark plug you buy was intended for the specific application. If there are any doubts--consult an application guide for your specific engine. The 8th digit in your VIN number identifies the engine family. A plugged air filter hurts performance...and if your vehicle has a MAF sensor, when you make it flow better--it'll actually use more fuel. So be conscious of your choices with FIPK retrofit kits or other inlet modifications. 4. Wheel Alignment. An alignment problem can be the equivalent of dragging your car sideways down the highway a couple of feet for every couple miles of driving. A real good indicator of alignment problems are the front tires. Here's a quick and simple test. Get a tire crayon and 'color' a 1" wide strip across the front of your tire from inside to outside. Do the same on the other front tire. Drive in a straight line for 100 feet (pavement or concrete) without turning your steering wheel . If the crayon is already scrubbed off the tire--you may want to consider a wheel alignment. This little test in no way indicates a proper alignment--but would indicate improper 'toe' alignment, which is the #1 tire wearing angle. This Toe check indicates if your tires are |// --- \\| toe in or |\\ --- //| toe out in relation to each other. Because of the complexity of today's automotive suspensions--take the vehicle to the experts. Do not attempt to adjust anything yourself. Insist on a 4-wheel alignment for a FWD car -- and a thrust align, or two wheel alignment for a rear wheel drive solid rear axle vehicle. 5. Cold driving -- Warm up. There is no 'real' advantage to fully warming up your engine before driving, other than using more fuel. This also applies to extended idling, etc...it's all wasted fuel. Try to consolidate trips to the store, school, work, errands....careful planning and execution of a route can safe fuel (and a lot of unnecessary mileage). Driving like you stole the vehicle will never help mileage--drive your vehicle like you've got an egg between your foot and the gas pedal...accelerate slowly. 6. Incorrect tire size. When you install a larger tire than what was original to the vehicle, you are actually requiring the engine to develop even MORE torque to maintain rolling resistance down the highway. Although we can correct the speedometer and odometer--don't expect mileage gains. 7. Decrease AIR!! This flies in the face of what is sold out there today, but if you can decrease the amount of air entering the engine (due to the fact that this is a closed loop system as of 1996 OBD2) you will use less fuel, too. Ideally, you want to maintain the same horsepower required to combat air friction, rolling mass losses, etc...but do it with LESS AIR!! Let me illustrate. A closed loop system maintains the air fuel ratio at 14.7 lbs air to 1 lb of fuel. This is maintained for idle, cruise and in some cases, even at wide open throttle. If you have 60 grams/sec air entering the engine at cruise, you're using 4.08 grams of fuel per second. If the cylinder pressures are increased without creating harmful exhaust by-products, or if these by-products are controlled by the catalytic converter, we can gain mileage by decreasing airflow through the engine while enhancing the spark curve to maintain the same rear wheel HP. On the chassis dyno, we can get vehicles down to 45-50 grams air/sec maintaining the same air fuel ratio, and same wheel HP as stock--and the overall result is less fuel consumed ! 45 g/secs works out to 3.06 g/fuel used in the same time period--or an almost 25% saving. We can't gain this in all vehicles of course--this example was resultant data from a 2007 6.0L HD 3500 GM truck. This flies in the face of every aftermarket product out there claiming that it saves fuel--you will never gain mileage by increasing airflow through a gasoline engine in a mass airflow type system. Because we carefully remap the spark curve with a remapped ECU, we in effect are increasing cylinder pressure without adding fuel. Increased cylinder pressure translates into more useable torque and power to maintain the power required for 'rolling resistance' of the vehicle down the road. The increase in horsepower often results in better fuel economy--although we do not guarantee mileage gains--as we cannot determine how YOU drive, and what your driving habits are. Diesels are a different story...we need to stuff as much air in the cylinder as possible--and create maximum cylinder pressure at diesel injection point, use all the heat energy created to maximize pressure while keeping the total combustion event in the cylinder prior to exhaust valve opening. Smoke is wasted energy...in reality, diesels can actually run as low as 100lbs of air to 1 lb of fuel--although there's not enough heat energy created at that ratio. There's no magic air fuel ratio for diesel--leaner operation does not create damage, it just won't make power. Therefore, you need a balance of fuel, best boost and proper timing to make the diesel efficient. Lyndon Wester, Owner, Wester's Garage Check www.epa.gov for fuel mileage hoaxes. Here's a good read from the Federal Trade Commission: "Gas-Saving" Products: Fact or Fuelishness? Gas prices are up, and so is the volume of advertising for "gas-saving" products. When gasoline prices rise, consumers often look for ways to improve fuel efficiency. Although there are practical steps you can take to increase gas mileage, the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) warns you to be wary of any gas-saving claims for automotive devices or oil and gas additives. Even for the few gas-saving products that have been found to work, the savings have been small. "Gas-Saving" Advertising Claims. Be sceptical of the following kinds of advertising claims. "This gas-saving product improves fuel economy by 20 percent." Claims usually tout savings ranging from 12 to 25 percent. However, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has evaluated or tested more than 100 alleged gas-saving devices and has not found any product that significantly improves gas mileage. In fact, some "gas-saving" products may damage a car's engine or cause substantial increases in exhaust emissions. The gas-saving products on the market fall into clearly defined categories. Although the EPA has not tested or evaluated every product, it has tried to examine at least one product in each category. See "Devices Tested by EPA" at the end of this brochure for category descriptions and product names. "After installing your product on my car, I got an extra 4 miles [6.4 kilometres] per gallon [3.8 litres]." Many ads feature glowing testimonials by satisfied customers. Yet, few consumers have the ability or the equipment to test for precise changes in gas mileage after installing a gas-saving product. Many variables affect fuel consumption, including traffic, road and weather conditions, and the car's condition. For example, one consumer sent a letter to a company praising its "gas-saving" product. At the time the product was installed, however, the consumer also had received a complete engine tune-up - a fact not mentioned in the letter. The entire increase in gas mileage attributed to the "gas-saving" product may well have been the result of the tune-up alone. But from the ad, other consumers could not have known that. "This gas-saving device is approved by the Federal government." No government agency endorses gas-saving products for cars. The most that can be claimed in advertising is that the EPA has reached certain conclusions about possible gas savings by testing the product or by evaluating the manufacturer's own test data. If the seller claims that its product has been evaluated by the EPA, ask for a copy of the EPA report, or check www.epa.gov for information. In some instances, false claims of EPA testing or approval have been made. Product Complaints and Refunds If you're dissatisfied with a gas-saving product, contact the manufacturer and ask for a refund. Most companies offer money-back guarantees. Contact the company, even if the guarantee period has expired. If you're not satisfied with the company's response, contact your local or state consumer protection agency or the Better Business Bureau. Shifting Gears: Real Money-Saving Steps There are numerous no- or low-cost steps you can take to combat rising gas prices. The most important place to start is at the gas pump; buy only the octane level gas you need. All gas pumps must post the octane rating of the gas under the FTC's Fuel Rating Rule. Remember, the higher the octane, the higher the price. Check your owner's manual to determine the right octane level for your car. Here are some additional tips from the EPA to help you get better gas mileage. Drive more efficiently Stay within posted speed limits. The faster you drive, the more fuel you use. For example, driving at 65 miles per hour (mph), rather than 55 mph, increases fuel consumption by 20 percent. Driving at 75 mph, rather than 65 mph, increases fuel consumption by another 25 percent. Use overdrive gears. Overdrive gears improve the fuel economy of your car during highway driving. Your car's engine speed decreases when you use overdrive. This reduces both fuel consumption and engine wear. Use cruise control. Using cruise control on highway trips can help you maintain a constant speed and, in most cases, reduce your fuel consumption. Anticipate driving situations. If you anticipate traffic conditions and don't tailgate, you can avoid unnecessary braking and acceleration, and improve your fuel economy by 5 to 10 percent. In city driving, nearly 50 percent of the energy needed to power your car goes to acceleration. Go easy on the gas pedal and brakes. "Jack-rabbit" starts and sudden stops are wasteful. Avoid unnecessary idling. Turn off the engine if you anticipate a lengthy wait. No matter how efficient your car is, unnecessary idling wastes fuel, costs you money and pollutes the air. Combine errands. Several short trips taken from a cold start can use twice as much fuel as one trip covering the same distance when the engine is warm. Remove excess weight from the trunk. Avoid carrying unneeded items, especially heavy ones. An extra 100 pounds in the trunk reduces a typical car's fuel economy by one to two percent. Maintain Your Car Keep your engine tuned. Studies have shown that a poorly tuned engine can increase fuel consumption by as much as 10 to 20 percent depending on a car's condition. Follow the recommended maintenance schedule in your owner's manual; you'll save fuel and your car will run better and last longer. Keep your tires properly inflated and aligned. Car manufacturers must place a label in the car stating the correct tire pressure. The label usually is on the edge of the door or door jamb, in the glove box, or on the inside of the gas cap cover. If the label lists a psi (pounds per square inch) range, use the higher number to maximize your fuel efficiency. Under inflated tires cause fuel consumption to increase by six percent. Change your oil. Clean oil reduces wear caused by friction between moving parts and removes harmful substances from the engine. Change your oil as recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. Check and replace air filters regularly. Your car's air filter keeps impurities in the air from damaging internal engine components. Not only will replacing a dirty air filter improve your fuel economy, it also will protect your engine. Clogged filters can cause up to a 10 percent increase in fuel consumption. Consider buying a fuel efficient vehicle Deciding which vehicle to buy may be the most important fuel economy decision you make. The difference between a car that gets 20 MPG (miles per gallon) and one that gets 30 MPG amounts to $1,500 over 5 years, assuming gas costs $1.50 per gallon and you drive 15,000 miles a year. Visit www.fueleconomy.gov for more information. You'll find gas mileage estimates and other data from EPA for 1985-2003 model year cars. EPA Evaluation Efforts The EPA evaluates or tests products to determine whether their use will result in any significant improvement or detriment to fuel economy. However, the EPA cannot say what effect gas-saving products will have on a vehicle over time because it hasn't conducted any durability tests. It's possible that some products may harm the car or may otherwise adversely affect its performance. In fact, today's vehicles' emission control systems are very sophisticated and complex. They have On Board Diagnostic features that alert the driver to problems associated with the emission control and fuel delivery systems. Retrofit products may have an adverse effect on these systems. Devices Tested by EPA The following list categorizes various types of "gas-saving" products, explains how they're used and gives product names. Those with asterisks may save measurable, but small, amounts of gas. All others have been found not to increase fuel economy. Air Bleed Devices. These devices bleed air into the carburetor. They usually are installed in the Positive Crankcase Ventilation line or as a replacement for idle-mixture screws. The EPA has evaluated the following products: ADAKS Vacuum Breaker Air Bleed; Air-Jet Air Bleed; Aquablast Wyman Valve Air Bleed; Auto-Miser; Ball-Matic Air Bleed; Berg Air Bleed; Brisko PCV; Cyclone-Z; Econo Needle Air Bleed; Econo-Jet Air Bleed Idle Screws; Fuel Max*; Gas Saving Device; Grancor Air Computer; Hot Tip; Landrum Mini-Carb; Landrum Retrofit Air Bleed; Mini Turbocharger Air Bleed; Monocar HC Control Air Bleed; Peterman Air Bleed; Pollution Master Air Bleed; Ram-Jet; Turbo-Dyne G.R. Valve. Vapour Bleed Devices. These devices are similar to the air bleed devices, except that induced air is bubbled through a container of a water and anti-freeze mixture, usually located in the engine compartment. The EPA has evaluated: Atomized Vapour Injector; Frantz Vapour Injection System; Hydro-Vac: POWERFUeL; Mark II Vapour Injection System; Platinum Gasaver; V-70 Vapour Injector; SCATPAC Vacuum Vapour Induction System: Econo-Mist Vacuum Vapour Injection System; Turbo Vapour Injection System. Liquid Injection. These products add liquid into the fuel/air intake system and not directly into the combustion chamber. The EPA has evaluated: Goodman Engine System-Model 1800; Waag-Injection System*. Ignition Devices. These devices are attached to the ignition system or are used to replace original equipment or parts. The EPA has evaluated: Autosaver; Baur Condenser; BIAP Electronic Ignition Unit; Fuel Economizer; Magna Flash Ignition Control System; Paser Magnum/Paser 500/Paser 500 HEI; Special Formula Ignition Advance Springs. Fuel Line Devices (heaters or coolers). These devices heat the fuel before it enters the carburetor. Usually, the fuel is heated by the engine coolant or by the exhaust or electrical system. The EPA has evaluated: FuelXpander; Gas Meiser I; Greer Fuel Preheater; Jacona Fuel System; Optimizer; Russell Fuelmiser. Fuel Line Devices (magnets). These magnetic devices, clamped to the outside of the fuel line or installed in the fuel line, claim to change the molecular structure of gasoline. The EPA has evaluated: PETRO-MIZER; POLARION-X; Super-Mag Fuel Extender; Wickliff Polarizer [fuel line magnet/intake air magnet]. Fuel Line Devices (metallic). Typically, these devices contain several dissimilar metals that are installed in the fuel line, supposedly causing ionization of the fuel. The EPA has evaluated: Malpassi Filter King [fuel pressure regulator]; Moleculetor. Mixture Enhancers (under the carburetor). These devices are mounted between the carburetor and intake manifold and supposedly enhance the mixing or vaporization of the air/fuel mixture. The EPA has evaluated: Energy Gas Saver; Environmental Fuel Saver; Gas Saving and Emission Control Improvement Device; Glynn-50; Hydro-Catalyst Pre-Combustion Catalyst System; PETROMIZER SYSTEM; Sav-A-Mile; Spritzer; Turbo-Carb; Turbocarb. Mixture Enhancers (others). These devices make some general modifications to the vehicle intake system. The EPA has evaluated: Basko Enginecoat; Dresser Economizer; Electro-Dyne Superchoke; Filtron Urethane Foam Filter; Lamkin Fuel Metering Device; Smith Power and Deceleration Governor. Internal Engine Modifications. These devices make physical or mechanical function changes to the engine. The EPA has evaluated: ACDS Automotive Cylinder Deactivation System*; Dresser Economizer; MSU Cylinder Deactivation*. Accessory Drive Modifiers. These devices reduce power to specific auto accessories. The EPA has evaluated: Morse Constant Speed Accessory Drive **; P.A.S.S. Kit**; PASS Master Vehicle Air Conditioner**. Fuels and Fuel Additives. These materials are added to the gas tank. The EPA has evaluated: Bycosin; EI-5 Fuel Additive; Fuelon Power; Johnson Fuel Additive; NRG #1 Fuel Additive; QEI 400 Fuel Additive; Rolfite Upgrade Fuel Additive; Sta-Power Fuel Additive; Stargas Fuel Additive; SYNeRGy-1; Technol G Fuel Additive; ULX-15/ULX-15D; Vareb 10 Fuel Additive; XRG #1 Fuel Additive. Oils and Oil Additives. Usually these materials are poured into the crankcase. The EPA has evaluated: Analube Synthetic Lubricant; Tephguard. Driving Habit Modifiers. These are lights or sound devices to tell the driver to reduce acceleration or to shift gears. The EPA has evaluated: AUTOTHERM**; Fuel Conservation Device; Gastell; IDALERT**. Miscellaneous. The EPA has evaluated: BRAKE-EZ; Dynamix; Fuel Maximiser; Gyroscopic Wheel Cover; Kamei Spoilers**; Kat's Engine Heater; Lee Exhaust and Fuel Gasification EGR; Mesco Moisture Extraction System; P.S.C.U. 01 Device; Treis Emulsifier. * Indicated a very small improvement in fuel economy but with an increase in exhaust emissions. According to Federal regulations, installation of this device could be considered illegal tampering. ** Indicated a very small improvement in fuel economy without an increase in exhaust emissions. However, cost-effectiveness must be determined by the consumer for a particular application. For More Information. For information about EPA test procedures and test results, visit www.epa.gov/otaq/consumer.htm or write: Verification and Compliance Division, Office of Transportation and Air Quality, Environmental Protection Agency, 2000 Traverwood Drive, Ann Arbor, MI 48105; or call: 734-214-4925. The FTC works for the consumer to prevent fraudulent, deceptive and unfair business practices in the marketplace and to provide information to help consumers spot, stop and avoid them. Watch for current additive 'scams' -- they become more prevalent in the spring of the year. As the weather warms up, you'll always get better mileage!!

Links ALLDATA - TSB site and good Automotive Repair Manuals on CD or DVD. This is the advertisement I did for them. AMVIC - We're governed and licensed by the AMVIC ASNU - Our Injector Flow Bench AutoEnginuity - Scan tool Software for your OBD2 vehicle with bi-directional controls SAE - Society of Automotive Engineers Superflow - We test what we sell Thank goodness we haven't experienced these but they're good for a laugh and a scratch of the head!

Dyno Results BEFORE Dyno Graphs - are before any tuning is done. Some vehicles are stock while others have modifications. AFTER Dyno Graphs - are results after Wester's Garage Tuning OVERLAY Dyno Graphs - have compared highlighted results! Wester's Tunes are highlighted Further Dyno Information Article from MOTORCYCLIST Magazine DynoJet Explanation Article BEFORE AFTER OVERLAY Vehicle Info 1967 Camaro 350 -- Custom 730 ECM with TBI 1985 Lamborghini Kit Car -- As delivered with stock injectors; retuned with 42lb injectors 1987 Throttle Body 5.7L Suburban -- using 87 Octane Fuel 1991 GM 1/2-Ton Truck - with custom Westers Garage TBI Engine! 1993 TBI Truck -- with 383 BluePrint Engine tuned at Wester's Garage 1995 GM 5.7L TBI 4L60E Truck -- Straight Stock! Ford Mustang 302 Manual Trans -- Customer added intake, MAF, exhaust - all of which (without tuning) gained NOTHING! Not what proper tuning did for upgraded parts. GMC Yukon -- 350 Ramjet transplant; OE Computer. Before: Initial tune; After: Final Tune 87 Octane 1998 6.5 TD Truck 6.5 TD Truck LS1 Convertible STS Rear Turbo -- Before: Tuned elsewhere; After: Wester's Garage Custom Tune V10 Dodge Automatic -- Came in Stock, Tuned with 87 Octane 1999 GM 4.8L 1/2-Ton -- Using 87 Octane 2000 Ford Mustang Rousch Ford F250 7.3L Automatic 2002 Cadillac Escalade -- Changed to 2WD, 4L80E, 408 CID, 60lb injectors, Magnusen S/C 5.3L GM Truck -- Before: Stock; Tuned with 87 Octane 2003 Chevy Corvette -- Kenne Bell S/C (See YouTube Videos!) Chevy Corvette -- 7.0L Displacement; Paxton S/C Before: As tuned by leading performance shop in Calgary After: Wester's Garage Custom Tune Z06 Corvette Stock vs. Z06 Corvette Kenne Bell Custom -- Kenne Bell S/C 3" 12 PSI Boost Z06 Corvette Stock vs. Z06 Corvette Paxton S/C -- with 427 and Paxton S/C, Wester's Garage Tuned Z06 Corvette Stock vs. Z06 Corvette -- Headers and Cold Air Only. Made 14.1 HP above stock! 2004 Chevy SSR 5.3L Ford Mustang -- with Pulleys 2005 Chevy Corvette M6 Ford Mustang LS2 Corvette M6 Automatic -- Stock; Wester's Garage Installed and Tuned Supercharger 2006 Chevy Canyon GM 6.0L 3/4-Ton -- using 87 Octane Pontiac Solstice -- Stage 2 Werks limited to 7 PSI boost STS Cadillac -- Dyno tuned at Modern Muscle Motorsports; Last one is WG Tuned, no air filter Nissan 350Z Turbo 2007 Pontiac Solstice 2.4L Auto -- Hahn Turbo Kit Pontiac G5 2.4L Pontiac Solstice 2.0L Turbo Pontiac GXP GMPP -- Before: Stock with Injection and Exhaust; After: GMPP Tune, WG Custom Tune with GMPP Parts One of our clients was tuned on a DynoJet. He has an aftermarket turbo 2008 2500 Series 3/4-Ton Duramax Pontiac Solstice 2.0L Turbo -- Dejon Intercooler, Dejon Intercooler Pipes, Dejon Intake, Solo Race Exhaust Pontiac Solstice 2.0L -- Before: BSR Race Tune; After: WG Race Tune; Overlay: WG Race Tune with Stock Graph GXP 2.0L Race Tune compared to 2005 Stock Corvette M6 Hummer H3 Alfa 2009 Cadillac CTS-V -- 6.2L S/C, smaller pulley, airbox, long tube headers. This was done remotely for one of our dealers. These are NOT comparison graphs. Nissan 370Z Nismo 2010 Camaro -- Stock Automatic Camaro LS3 M6 -- Magnusen S/C Camaro 6-Speed Mast Motorsports Camaro LS3 -- Stock vs. Camaro LS3 -- Exhaust Modifications and Mast Motorsports Camshaft Camaro LS3 -- Stock vs. Camaro LS3 -- Magnusen Wester's Tuned 433.6HP Camaro L99 -- Stock Exhaust, S/C and Tune only 2011 Ford Raptor -- Check out the video here Duramax Check out our YouTube Channel for some of our Dyno Runs * We are only able to Dyno Test and Tune 2-Wheel Drive Vehicles and only during the warmer months of the year (May-September). 1967 Before After Overlay 1985 Before After Overlay 1987 Before After Overlay 1991 Before After Video 1993 Before After Overlay 1995 Before After Overlay Before After Overlay Before After Overlay 1998 Before After Overlay Before After Overlay Before After Overlay Before After Overlay 1999 Before After Overlay 2000 Before After Overlay Before After Overlay 2002 Before After Overlay Before After Overlay 2003 Before After Overlay Before After Overlay Stock After Overlay Stock After Overlay Stock After Overlay 2004 Before After Overlay Before After Overlay 2005 Before After Overlay Before After Overlay Before After Overlay 2006 Before After Overlay Before After Overlay Before After Overlay Before After WG naf Before After Overlay 2007 Before After Overlay Before After Overlay Before After Overlay Before GMPP WG Overlay Before Here Overlay 2008 Before After Overlay Before After Overlay Before After Overlay Before After Overlay Before PP Tune Overlay Before After Overlay 2009 Before After AFR Before After Overlay 2010 Before After Overlay Before After Overlay Before After Overlay Before After Overlay Before After Overlay Before After Overlay 2011 Before After Overlay Before After Overlay